Pruning Shrubs At The Right Time

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Pruning shrubs is an important part of care and maintenance of your landscape. But pruning shrubs needs to be done at the allowable time to profess the attractiveness and appearance of the plant. Pruning at the wrong time may results in the loss of flowers for the year because all the buds were cut off. This is why it is important for you to pick the allowable time and to understand where the flower buds form.

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Flower buds form on either new wood or on old wood depending on plant species. In normal if the shrub produces flowers on new wood then you want to cut the shrub during the winter months before the plant comes out of dormancy and begins to bloom. If the shrub flowers on old wood then pruning should be done right after flowering so as to not cut off next years flower buds.

Shrubs That Bloom On New Wood
These shrubs should be pruned during December January And February
Abelia
Buckeye, Bottlebrush
Butterfly bush
Crape myrtle
Hibiscus (Confederate rose)
Hibiscus (rose of Sharon, althea)
Hydrangea, fall blooming
Hydrangea ('Annabelle')
Hypericum (St. John's Wort)
Nandina
Oleander
Rose, shrub
Smoke tree
Summer Blooming Spirea

Shrubs That Bloom On Old Wood
These plants all bloom on last years wood so they should be pruned right after they bloom. Do not wait too long as they flower buds form in the summer and you risk the opportunity of cutting them off.

Almond, flowering
Azalea, evergreen
Azalea, deciduous
Camellia
Daphne, winter
Deutzia
Forsythia
Fothergilla
Gardenia
Honeysuckle, winter
Hydrangea, oakleaf
Hydrangea, summer blooming
Indian hawthorn (Raphiolepis)
Jasmine, winter
Kerria
Leucothoe
Lilac
Mockorange
Mountain laurel (Kalmia)
Osmanthus
Pieris
Pyracantha
Quince
Rhododendron
Rose, climbing
Spirea, spring blooming
Sweetshrub (Carolina allspice)
Sweetspire (itea)
Viburnum, deciduous
Viburnum, evergreen
Weigela
Willow, Pussy
Wintersweet (Chimonanthus)
Witch hazel

Foliage Shrubs
There are also shrubs that are grown for their foliage and the flowers if any are inconsequential. The normal rule of thumb with these shrubs is to prune in the winter. A minuscule snipping or grooming is okay during the growing season.

Anise (Illicium)
Arborvitae
Aucuba
Barberry
Boxwood
Cherry laurel
Cleyera
Cotoneaster
Eleagnus
Euonymus, deciduous
Euonymus, evergreen
Fatsia
Harry Lauder's Walking Stick
Holly, evergreen
Holly, deciduous
Juniper
Laurel, English
Mahonia (Oregon Grapeholly)
Photinia
Pittosporum
Podocarpus
Privet (Ligustrum)
Sumac
Wax myrtle
Yew

These are some normal guidelines for you to supervene when taking care of the shrubs in your garden. If you have questions on definite plants you can all the time caress your local cooperative extension aid and their expert Gardeners or a staff member will be happy to answer your questions or supply you with more information.

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An Exceedingly Handsome Bird

No.1 Article of Arbor Vitae

For a amount of years Doris Huestis Speirs had carried on intensive studies of the Evening Grosbeak in their natural habitat, from New Hampshire to California, and in captivity at the Vivarium of the University of Illinois. Wishing to make an intimate study of their nesting behavior, a study that seemed almost impossible in the wild state, Mrs. Speirs brought to me, late in May, 1942, two male evening grosbeaks, in the hope that we might mate them with the females already in the summer aviary. If this could be done successfully, facts might be gleaned to add to the gift rather scant knowledge we have of these birds. My summer aviary is an octagon with large nesting compartments surrounding the main flight.

Two compartments, Nos. I and Viii were reserved for our grosbeaks. When they mated they would have many neighbors. In Ii were the wood thrushes, Vee and his mate with their three feathered young; in Iii, Robbie, the male robin; in Iv, Wintering and his mate, the rose-breasted grosbeaks with one nestling out of the nest: in V, wee Blue and Josie, the bluebirds with five newly hatched babies; in Vi, the catbirds, Fuss and his mate, with four youngsters almost ready to fly; in Vii, Cher, the eight-year-old rose-breasted grosbeak, whose mate was incubating their eggs. We had decided that as soon as the pairs were formed, nests built, and the first egg laid, the evening grosbeaks would be given the same liberty as was given to all the other nesting birds.

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The egress and ingress to the compartments would be by a small gate in the outer mesh wire, similar to that used by other specifics during the nesting season. Early in June Tana mated with Cherree, an old female, and they were placed in compartment I. Then Vesper mated with Tina, and they were put in Viii. Arbor vitas, growing in these compartments, made ideal nesting sites. Thus began a delightful experience; a prelude to the beauty to be seen often during the following days.

An Exceedingly Handsome Bird

The male evening grosbeak is an exceedingly handsome bird. The large areas of golden yellow, shading to umbery-bronze, stand out in stunning variation to the black and white of his wings. But to see him in all his beauty he must be seen as he courts his mate a few feet away. The male's wings are spread wide, rapidly vibrating, drooped so low that they almost scrape the ground; the tail is partly spread and slightly elevated; the head is retracted so that the beak is pointing level at the sky.

Gradually the male approaches the female, his head and body weaving in an erratic dance. Then, he looks like some gorgeous tropical butterfly rather than a bird. Yet his mate does not seem to be nearly so much impressed as we, or, if she is, she does not show it, for she goes quietly about the firm of building as though he were not there.

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Composting: The Aesthetics

We should discuss the aesthetics of the compost pile. A pile of rotting organery waste does not offend most gardeners, but that may be for the straightforward fact that they know what they will be getting when that pile shrinks down and turns into compost. They will get the best darn stuff known to gardening. Oh, the wonders of compost! But that is a whole other discussion. Back to aesthetics.

There is no two ways about it. The compost pile is less than keen to most people. It seems folks have an aversion to composting plainly because it detracts from the beauty of their yard. This may be true, but only if you let it. There are several ways to fix this problem. Let's go over some of them.

Hide and Seek

As with all things important but not pleasing to the eye, the compost heap should be settled in an out-of-the-way place. Half secret behind an existing structure such as a tool shed or even the greenhouse would somewhat hide the compost pile and, in the case of having it near the greenhouse, make it ever so favorable to use.

Forgotten place in the yard turned useful

You may have a forgotten place in your yard which no one actually pays much attentiveness to and you haven't done much with, maybe by choice. Maybe shrubs and/or vines grow a bit tangled and wild here and the leaves from the trees are left to do their thing where they fall. You may even leave it this way to provide a place for birds to nest and feed and to attract other forms of wildlife. Next to this forgotten spot would be a good place for this. It would look like a natural progression of things. And those leaves that fall to the ground, well, now they'll just drop onto the pile, rescue you the problem of raking and adding good material to the pile.

Plant a hiding place

This is practically like placing the pile behind an existing structure, only this is done on purpose. That is to say, you may reconsider planting a somewhat tall hedge around the area you select for the compost pile with the expressed purpose of hiding it from view. Pick one easy to grow plant and space them according to their spread. Pick one which flowers and produces fruit or berries and you have duplicate duty. This pretty hedge will hide the compost pile while giving you and/or your feathered neighbors something nice to look at and yummy fruit to eat.

For a permanent hiding place tall shrubs, prolific perennial vines and small multi-stemmed trees will do the trick nicely. Recommend shrubs for the purpose: Forsythia, Tartarian Honeysuckle, Lilac and Globe Arborvitae. Small multi-stemmed trees include: Crape Myrtle, Russian Olive, Hydrangea paniculata, and Star Magnolia. Lovely vines for good, thick cover are: Trumpet vine, Wisteria, Honeysuckle and Hops vines.

Make it Pretty

There's nothing saying you can't try to make this organic heap pretty. How? That all depends what you reconsider pretty. Some folks think a nice picket fence is sufficient to beautify the compost pile. You may reconsider production a box for the compost with a movable front panel for easy passage to the concluded compost.

Here are some suggestions to make the compost pile most attractive. Temporary or seasonal screens created by planting rows of Sunflowers, Hollyhocks, Golden Rod, Miscanthus decorative grass or Hardy Hibiscus make a very lovely surround for anything, even a compost pile. Fast growing annual vines such as Morning Glory, Moonflower, Scarlet Runner beans or any vine of your choice can climb on and cover a small chainlink or chicken wire fence if you are willing to put up this sort of structure around your compost pile. This would be actually gorgeous and you'd never know that a compost pile is back there.

Create a Barrier

You may reconsider surrounding the compost pile with hay bales stacked up. If these hay bales are effortlessly available to you, that would be a fine idea. They may even do duplicate duty if you are inclined to convention archery. A bull's eye target can go on the hay bales toward the back of the compost pile. Please, make obvious no one is working in the compost pile before letting loose with arrows!

Go Techno

Okay, not exactly techno but sort of. We're talking about those compost tumbler contraptions and the prefabricated plastic composting bins which hide all the unpleasantness of composting inside and away from delicate sensibilities. These work fine even if they are way too small for a someone with loads of organery waste (your ardent gardener, for instance) But be forewarned, you will need to spend huge amounts of money, and unnecessarily. To take a so totally natural process like decaying organic matter and then having to buy something in order to do it? There is not much the sense in it but if that's what it takes for you to start composting, then so be it.

You see? There actually is no need to fear your visitors will find your compost pile ugly. How can they if they can't find it?

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Cold Frame Evergreens Cuttings For Ground Covers

No.1 Article of Arbor Vitae

One marvelous use of a section of a cold frame is growing your own evergreen cuttings. Take out about four inches of soil and put in a composition of equal parts of sand and peat moss. Make cuttings of the tips of branches of the past season's growth of evergreens, put them an inch deep, half inch apart in a row, two inches between rows in the sand and peat in the frame.

This works beautifully for all the dissimilar varieties of yew and for most of the junipers, and arbor-vitaes. I doubt if it will work for you for pines, spruces, hemlocks, and firs. Try some of the broad-leafed evergreens such as boxwood, being sure to get cuttings from hardy strains in your locality. Also try fire-thorn, the evergreen wintercreeper (Euonymus), and evergreen barberry. But I doubt if you will find it will work for rhododendrons, mountain laurel, and leucothoe.

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If you need some evergreen ground covers - now (November) is a marvelous time to put in all the cuttings you will need of Japanese spurge, of any hardy provocative strains of the evergreen English ivy that you can find and of the many varieties of the creeping types of wintercreeper (Euonymus) used for ground covers. As for me, I have added ground covers around my norfolk island pine. And it was great.

Cold Frame Evergreens Cuttings For Ground Covers

Half the fun is to tuck in a few cuttings of this and that and the other thing just to see if it works. Soak the cuttings well after you put them in, being rigorous not to let them dry out from the time you take them off the plant until you get them into the cold frame.

Tack a piece of muslin on the inside of your cold frame sash to shade them and then fasten the sash on so it won't blow off. After things freeze up, cover the cuttings - after fully watering them - with a piece of gunny sack and fill in the top of the frame with leaves. The gunny sack is merely to make it easy to lift them out in the spring. Don't expect any of them to be rooted before May and some like the boxwood may not root until late summer. I will tell you later what to do with them after they root. But the big thing is that they do not dry out anytime between now and when they are rooted and taken out of the frame. This is just one more use of a cold frame.

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